Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Fakarava: A Scuba Diver's Paradise


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Sometimes, I still have to pinch myself when I realize that we are actually doing this.  We are sailing to all these exotic places in the world.  It just seems so "off the grid" and foreign to me and yet I am a part of all this!

People REALLY are doing this... and WE are THOSE people!
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I say this because we have met some wonderful people that are now "thick as thieves" with our family.  Everywhere we go, we meet other cruiser families that are just as wonderful and interesting as the next.  It really is mind boggling to me.

So many of these people have found early success in their careers.  Some have just retired and others have just taken a sabbatical from work to take a year or so off to travel the world by boat… a lot of them with their families.  We have even met a few couples that decided to do this as their honeymoon.  Young couples that have socked away enough cash to make this dream happen for them.
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An evening with fellow cruisers.
This night, everyone was required to come in costume.  (Except we didn't.  I wasn't feeling all that creative this evening.)
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It's interesting, because none of us have the same routes, some of us stay longer in some anchorages than others.  However, we all manage to stay in contact and promise to meet up later in some exotic location.   We all know that we will meet up again somewhere down the line.

I am  especially grateful for the connections that I have made with so many of the women in the cruising community.  They really are wonderful women.  Some are mothers, grandmothers, and some are just starting out their families.  All of them are so inspiring.  While the men talk "boats", we talk about our lives, our children, our careers before leaving for the cruising life, and all the amazing life experiences that have led us up to the moment that we have met on some remote island.  I really look forward to these evenings because I know that I'll make a lot of connections and friendships by evenings end.
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All our dinghies at sunset while we get together on the beach.
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Life on a boat. 
For Martin and me, life on the boat is getting to be very normal.
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We've had to resort to my skills (which are none).  This was my first haircut, ever.

Martin is still an expert babysitter.  He loves reading any book out loud to Lily (even if it's a book that he is reading for himself).  She honestly seems entertained by anything that he reads to her.
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Scuba Diving in Fakarava.
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When we left Takaroa, we set sail for Fakarava in the Tuamotus.  Fakarava is known to have some of the best diving in the world and it did not disappoint.   Every morning we would go for a dive and see hundreds of fish, sharks and other sea life.  It was like having an aquarium in our backyard.
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I have to admit, swimming with sharks really gets the blood pumping and is so fun.  One dive that we went on had over 200 sharks just sitting in "rank and file"  while we watched from the sidelines 80 feet down below the seas surface.  It was so fascinating.

I came up from this dive and said, "I'm not quite sure if I was freezing or truly petrified after having done that!  I'm going to go with the latter…"  It really was scary, but after about my 3rd dive, it became more and more normal to just be out swimming with sharks.  I still can't believe that I did it.
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A Napoleon fish.  
Napolean's are HUGE and just swim right by you as if they own the ocean.  They are also so colorful. I wish I could have taken a photo to give it justice.
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We could jump off the boat in any direction and just swim with the fishes.
The water was so clear, that I was able to stick my waterproof camera in the water and snap a photo of David and Sue scuba diving 80-feet below. 
Even closer of David and Sue down below.

The only low moment that we have had so far, was when Martin lost our GoPro.  He had just gotten back from a spectacular dive where all the grouper from the atoll (1,000's) were spawning and the sharks were feeding off the eggs that were being spawned.

The dive was a spectacular sight to watch underwater and I don't think that we will ever have an opportunity to see something like this in the wild ever again.  We were elbowing the grouper to get out of our path so that we could swim past them.  There were THAT many fish!  It was amazing.  Anyway, Martin got some "one of a kind" movies of this spawning happening all around us and we were so excited to share the footage with our readers.  However, in all the excitement, our GoPro camera got lost amongst all the flippers, wetsuits and masks and we think that it went over the side of the boat.

We were determined to find it.  First, we mapped out a grid and Martin, David and I jumped in with our snorkels to see if we could see the GoPro on the ocean floor.  However, the current was so strong that after drifting a good 500 feet, we decided to get back in the dinghy and figure out a second plan of attack.  Hence the pictures below of Martin being pulled by the dinghy while he checks out the sea's floor below.
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We never found the camera, but it did make for some funny pictures of Martin being pulled behind the dinghy.

Also, before we lost the camera, I was able to download some amazing footage of our encounters with the sharks.  As soon as I get a chance, I'll load it and post it.  We love looking at all the sharks close up and in HD.  You will too!
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Besides the diving, Fakarava is just plain beautiful.  The waters were inexplicably calm the first few days we were there and we could see clear down to the oceans floor.
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The sharks would keep vigil out the back of our boat hoping for any scraps that might come their way.  We were careful not to feed them since it would impede our swimming.  They were happy to share the water with us and we were fine sharing it with them.  (As long as I didn't see any while I was about to jump into the water.)
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I know, I look like a terrible mom after just writing about swimming with sharks and I still put my daughter out into the water.  Just know that the sharks are very scared of us folks and keep their distance.
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Plus, Lily loves the water.
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So does Sue.  While on board, we celebrated Sue's birthday.  Here she is celebrating it "Island Style."
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I didn't have wrapping paper for her present, so I improvised.  
The great thing about sailing is that there is time for picnics and campfires.  One night, we decided to do dinner on shore and have a campfire.
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Our spread.
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Why use the fire when you have a state-of-the-art BBQ?
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Another great thing about sailing, is that there is plenty of time for exploration of some "deserted" island or lagoon.
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Off Martin and Lily go to start their exploring.
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I always bring her floating tube just in case Martin gets tired of carrying Lily.  (He never tires of it.) He loves just holding her and explaining to her everything that he sees.  He's a gem.
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While exploring, we found a coconut tree.  Martin was determined to take the coconuts back to the boat.
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Success!  Now to figure out how to carry them along with Lily and all the other treasures that I had been picking up along the trail.
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Bingo!  I knew this would come in handy!
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Last but not least, this is what I have grown to love the most while on this adventure.  The ocean and it's sunsets.
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AMARA enjoying the sunset as well.  There is beauty everywhere.