Thursday, October 9, 2014

Dispatches from the Indian Ocean

Great news!  AMARA should be reaching landfall by the 12th!  That's just around the corner.  I am so happy to know that they are almost there and that land is near.  It's been a rough ride and Martin, David and Doug are anxious to make it to Durban.

I got a great email from Doug today that I thought I would share with you.  It demonstrates how there is never a dull moment while at sea.

Enjoy the read...

"This morning while I was on watch (at the helm) I saw a Humpback whale breech very close to the boat.  It jumped almost completely out of the water, then fell on its side with a tremendous splash.. less than a hundred yards from the boat.  Very cool!  He then swam along side us for a while before losing interest and moving away.

Then later during that same watch I encountered a very interesting navigational problem.  The instrument that measures boat speed relative to the water said we were moving west at eight knots.  However, the instrument that measures boat speed relative to ground (the GPS) said that the boat was basically not moving at all.  We were in a very strange ocean current eddy that was pushing us to the east at the same speed that we were moving through the water to the west.  The net result was no progress even though we were sailing as fast as we could.  An eight knot current eddy is almost unheard of, but not impossible. The waters in this part of the Indian Ocean are famous for doing strange things like this and today they lived up to their reputation.  (In case you're wondering what I did to solve the problem... I pointed the boat north and ran that way for a while until we were clear of the strange eddy.  If I hadn't done that and things hadn't changed then we could have stayed in that same spot of the ocean forever, sailing as fast as we could but getting nowhere.)"

Monday, October 6, 2014

Madagascar and an Albatross

I heard from Martin today.  It's always a great treat to hear from him while they are underway.  He told me that they are rounding the tip of Madagascar at about 200 miles from the shore.  The wind is gusting at 30+ knots while they are fighting a 3 knot current with steep waves that are making the boat roll at a 45 degree angle.  Needless to say, there is lots of pounding on the hulls.  Martin said that the waves are so high that they can see waves breaking at the height of the window from outside the galley.  That is high!

I asked him if he was feeling sick and he said that they were too busy to feel sick as they are fighting the seas most of the time, but that they are having fun.  Really, that is all that matters.

While talking with Martin on the phone, I could hear the wind whistling through the sails and it sounded a bit sketchy.  He told me not to worry, and that they were fine.  About that time, a huge Albatross flew up next to the boat and Martin said that it had a huge wingspan at about 6 feet long.  I quickly googled "Albatross" to see it could really be one and it said that "If you want to see an Albatross, go to Madagascar."  So cool!  Martin reported to me later that the bird stayed with them the remainder of the day staying close to the boat.  He also said that he understood why sailors often commented that they felt that they were being watched over by these large birds as they flew close to their ships.

AMARA is still slated to reach the coast of South Africa in about 7 days.. whether it be Durban or somewhere close to it (as the wind is pushing them a bit off course at times).  Fingers crossed they make it sooner rather than later!




Friday, October 3, 2014

Next stop... South Africa!

I spoke to Martin yesterday as they were leaving port and headed for Durban, South Africa.  It should take them around 9 days to arrive—pending good weather.  Martin, David and Doug saw a small break in the weather and decided to go for it and leave port and head to Durban.

This could be a good thing... or a very bad thing.  The weather has NOT been great and if they hit bad weather, then there would be lots of wobbling and teetering which is never good on the stomach.
*  *  *  *  *  *  *
Last Sunday, Martin went to church at a small congregation of the LDS church on La Reunion island. At the end of church, and in true Martin fashion, he got up and invited everyone over for Family Home Evening (a night set aside for families and friends to gather—usually on Monday nights) on AMARA.  He called me after church and said he had a bit of anxiety about the get together because neither Sue or myself would be there to help out in the planning.  However, I was fully confident that Martin, Doug and David could pull it off (John had left earlier, via airplane, for South Africa to meet up with his wife, Tamrika for a short visit).

As you can tell from the photos below, it looks like the evening was a great success!
Members of the LDS (Mormon) congregation on Reunion Island.
The table is set.
Lots of yummy food for everyone.



The Branch President
(He overseas the congregation on Reunion Island).
 
This is a great photo of Martin and
a LDS (Mormon) missionary.
*  *  *  *  *  *  *
This week,  Martin, Davie and Doug went on a hike with their aim at the highest peak that they could find.  They were able to climb to 9,500 feet which is equivalent to Mt. Olympus here in Utah.  Martin, who is the most athletic person that I know, and can climb any peak with ease, said he really struggled on the climb since he hasn't been able to workout out much since he has been sailing for the past 6 months.  He's anxious to get back to his regular workouts and climbing the peaks here in Utah. Doug was able to capture some great photos of the climb and of David and Martin at the top of the mountain.
David and Martin at the top of the peak.
The clouds settling in at the top.
Doug at the top!
Martin wrote me this morning and said things are going well and so far, so good.  I hope to hear from him tonight or tomorrow and hopefully there will be good news to follow.  I sure miss my guy and can't wait to meet up with him in the next two weeks.  I am wishing them smooth sailing until we meet up soon!

Friday, September 26, 2014

Beautiful Scenes of Reunion Island

Martin sent me some beautiful photos that he took while on their sightseeing tour around Reunion island.
The flowers are breathtaking.

The beautiful waterfalls.
Martin reports that they are going to sit tight for the next few days since there isn't much of a weather window at this moment.  He is hoping that it will open up in the next few days so that they can head to Durban and then on to Cape Town.  I'm crossing my fingers and saying a few prayers in their behalf so that they make it their safely without the weather getting in their way.

Thursday, September 25, 2014

The Gents Have Made it To Reunion Island

I got an email today from Martin telling me it was a smooth sail to Reunion Island.  He wrote that so far no internet but they do have a rental car!  Looks like they are going to do a little tourist activity today.

While sailing, fishing has been at an all time high.  They have caught so much fish that there is no more room in the freezers for fish.  Martin told me that they are eating it as fast as they can but every time they do, they catch another fish.  Well, at least I know that they aren't going hungry.

Martin and one big Mahi-Mahi.

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Mauritius

The beautiful streets of Mauritius.
On Sunday, Martin and crew (David, Doug and John) made it safely to Mauritius.  They are now officially two-thirds of the way across the Indian Ocean.   It was a fairly calm sail, with the wind at their back, but they are certainly glad to be on land for a few days.

Mauritius is different than the islands of Indonesia as it is has more of a European influence.   It has been a lovely stay for everyone, especially since AMARA was given the best parking spot in the marina—right in front a 5-star hotel!
AMARA front and center!
It's been really great being right in front of the hotel because Martin is able to sit at a wonderful breakfast in the hotel while he and I Skype his morning (my night) away getting caught up on all things Frey.   It's been a real luxury.

Tomorrow they hope to push off and head to Durban.  It will take them around 12 days (1576nm).  Their weather window wasn't good yesterday or they would have left sooner.  I am hoping to get in one more phone call with Martin before they leave.
Now this is my idea of sailing!

Friday, September 19, 2014

More Updates On AMARA

All,

We've just had a great team effort battling a monster Yellowfin tuna for the last 2 hours and had him up to the side of the boat several times where we were attempting to gaff him.  Unfortunately the line touched the edge of the exhaust pipe and broke.  

All good on Amara,

Martin

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

AMARA Update!

I got a great email from Martin today that I thought I would share with you all to give you an update on Amara and their current position.  Looks like they are getting closer to Mauritius, which means closer to internet!  It will be nice to finally be able to FaceTime with Martin.  He's been at sea way too long and we are really missing him these days... 

Enjoy!


"All Is Well on AMARA

AMARA is currently 4 days from arriving in Mauritius.  We have been experiencing light winds and a mild sea today as we crossed the major shipping lane between South Africa and Singapore.  We saw 5 large ships today, the biggest being a gigantic 1200 feet long and 200 feet wide.  Thanks to our AIS (Automatic Identification System) we can see their ship details including their course and speed, and they can see us as a small sailboat.

On board we are currently well stocked with fresh Mahi Mahi and Yellowfin tuna, having caught 3 large Mahi Mahi the day before yesterday.  One fish was 30+ pounds.   In the calm sunny weather, we have been relaxing and each been doing a lot of reading.

The latest crew pastime seems to be to outdo each other in the kitchen. Yesterday David baked fresh bread and cooked up a Moroccan Fish Stew for dinner, while today Doug baked an apple pie, and John served up a Carrot Curry Cashew Soup with Mahi Mahi.  I'm on the hook for dinner tonight, and will be feeling the pressure.  We all are most grateful to Sue for creating all these great recipes in our AMARA cookbook.

The temperature has been getting noticeably cooler as we continue further south.  The shorts and tshirts are being exchanged for long pants and polar fleece. It is still 73 F, but it feels like 60 when you are sitting on watch for 3 hours in the wind.

Best to all,
Martin"

Monday, September 15, 2014

Today's Update on Amara

Martin called last night and reported that this past week they have been in 24 knot winds for the past week and reported that he was actually cold (even though it was 75 degrees).  With the wind blowing all day and all night, it made it a little cold and uncomfortable—especially while on watch.  Today the wind finally started to die down and is now a lot more manageable than this past week.

Every time I talk with Martin he is in great spirits and is truly loving his experience crossing the Indian ocean.  We are in talks whether I should meet him in South Africa or he should come home.  We just aren't sure as of yet and have a week or so to think about it.

Martin sent out an email today to all his fellow cruisers on the same route as Amara and I thought I would share it with you all to let you know about Amara's current position.

"Hello fellow Indian Ocean sailors.

As of noon local time (0700UTC) Amara was at 17d 56m South by 72d 36m East.  During the night last night we passed the halfway point between Bali and Durban.  Yeah!  We are now 2540 miles from Bali and 2380 miles from Durban.

Winds are in the low teens out of the eastsoutheast.

We caught three Mahi Mahi's yesterday.  The largest was about 35 lbs.  Not enough to beat Christine and Guy's record, but close. If you add all three of them together it was probably at least seventy lbs of fish.  Not bad for one day's haul.


—Martin"

I always love hearing from Martin and am so glad that he is still enjoying his journey.  More to come later this week!

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

A Quick Update:Thoughts on the Cocos Islands and Amara's Current Position


Thoughts on Cocos Islands, by Martin:

"We spent 4 days in the Cocos Islands. An atoll west of Bali by about 1200 miles.  The islands reminded me alot of the beautiful palm covered islands of the South Pacific.  We anchored in a small lagoon off of Direction Island with a beautiful sandy beach and the trade winds providing a nice cool breeze.  Black tipped reef sharks circled the boat endlessly waiting for a handout. Snorkeling in the marine reserve proved to be spectacular as we saw the largest unicorn fish of the whole sailing voyage, manta rays, and several large sharks and a barracuda .  We hosted a party onboard AMARA with the seven other yachts in the lagoon. As a result we made some good friends to keep an eye on each other as we do our crossing of the Indian Ocean.  We were also able to catch up on the internet and reprovision in the local store, but had to pay dearly for it.  A head of lettuce was $9, bread was $8, and tomatoes were $2 apiece.   We made some friends that took us diving to a wreck with some great fish life and then crayfish hunting (clawless lobster).  

On our last day, we traveled over to West Island and got the full tour by our friends.  They were proud of having the only international airport that wasn't fenced in and was indeed the center of a golf course.  I didn't want to tell them that there is another unfenced international airport I'd been to in Antarctica.  Local life moves pretty slowly in these parts without much changing day to day.  There are only 80 adults living on West Island.  The one exception is that they have a perfect location for kiteboarding and have a school there that supports the sport.  We considered giving it a another go, but then decided we would be better off if we got an earlier start toward Mauritius.

We are currently 500 miles out to sea on our way to Mauritius, with 1700+ miles still to go, and the Indian ocean proving that it is indeed rougher than South Pacific.  We debated at length the pros and cons of sailing over the top of Madagascar versus under it and finally made the decision to sail beneath it, knowing that we will be more exposed to any of the dreaded storms coming up from the southern ocean.  I've finally found my sea legs again and have just finished reading the Autobiography of Benjamin Franklin, a book by Clayton Christiansen called "How to Measure Your Life" and also a book about the Australian outback.  Unfortunately the hard drive with all our movies aboard crashed, but we were able to salvage the TV series Newsroom and have been enjoying it immensely, tonight being our tenth and final episode.  You take what you can get when you're a at sea."

Amara's Current Position and Some Messages to Fellow Travellers:

"AMARA is at 14 degrees 27.3 minutes South and 87 degrees 41.4 minutes East doing 184 miles per day.
I think we are about 140 miles to the north east behind Sanctuary and ahead of Doug on Fellow Traveler.

After much consideration regarding Ken's council (another cruiser), we decided to head for Mauritius instead of Madagascar.

Christine, congrats on a 40 lb Mahi Mahi unless of course your 40+ meant you caught more than 40.  Save some for us!!"

Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Komodo Island and Manta Rays–Bali: Installment 2

Once we got the filtered gas and back in Amara's fuel tanks, we took off to Komodo Island.  Komodo Island is about a half a day sail from LBG.  
Right when we arrived at Komodo island, we jumped into the tender and headed for the tour of the island.  As we got closer, I could see the ground start to move.  I quickly realized that it was Komodo dragons coming out to see the tourists.  I think they have had enough bologna thrown their way that word has gotten out among them that the first one to the beach gets the food.  They came trailing out from all corners of the beach heading straight toward us.

Martin and Doug jumped right out of the tender and were able to get just close enough to snap a picture and then jump back into the boat.  The bacteria is so bad on these dragons that it can cause a terrible infection and worse case, death.

It was so amazing to see the Komodo's so close up.  We just sat in the tender and watched as they strolled the beach.

After sitting there for quite some time, we headed back to the boat to go diving in what was probably the most magnificent sea aquarium that I had ever seen.  I had never seen so much colorful fish and coral gathered together.
I think Martin and Made dove at least 3 times because the diving was so incredible.

We stayed near Komodo island for the rest of the day and then took off the next morning to go and dive with Manta Rays.  Made kept saying that we would really enjoy this next experience.  Having dived with Manta Rays in Tahiti and Suwarrow (Cook Islands) I wasn't sitting on pins and needles.

When we got to the spot where we were going to dive, there was a large commercial dive boat loaded with tourists and their were snorkels scattered throughout the water.  We decided to wait it out and let them have their time before we jumped in.  Again, I wasn't all that anxious.  You've seen one Manta Ray, you've seen them all.  I had become quite calloused.

Finally after the boat left,  we jumped in Amara's tender and headed for a spot smack dab in the middle of nowhere.  I was amazed that Made knew exactly where to drop us into the water.  The water was really rough and I hesitated getting in because I thought it might be a little too much for me.  Just then Made pointed and said, "There, jump in there."  As I looked over to where he was pointing, all I saw were fins poking out of the water.  Made said for us to get in and hurry!  Being curious, I jumped in without hesitation.  We swam for a little while to get closer to the fins and then ducked under the water.  I COULD NOT BELIEVE MY EYES!  We counted at one point 12 manta rays just swimming around us in circles.  Again the water was super rough, but non of us seemed to care.

Doug and his first encounter with a manta ray.
Martin reaching out to touch the manta ray while I swam underneath it.
We stayed out in the water for a good hour just playing with these amazing creatures.
On the chase.
Doug getting a closer look.
Martin is an amazing diver.  He can go incredibly deep in the water and stay down there for what seems forever.
In this photo of Martin, you can see three of the Manta Rays that seemed to just want to play with us.
After fighting the waves for an hour, we were all a little exhausted so we headed back to the tender where Made picked us up.  A few weeks after we were in this area, I heard on the news about a tourist boat carrying 25 passengers sank in this exact same area due to the waves being so high.  Here it is in the news.  

We had an amazing time visiting the islands in Indonesia close to Bali.  It really is a beautiful part of the world.  After we had our fill of diving, we headed for Bali which was a two day journey.  

*  *  *  *  *  *  *
Finally we arrived in Bali after being at sea for 5 days.  I was anxious to get to land.  Even more, I was anxious to get to a restaurant.  I had appointed myself as Amara's cook for those 5 days and was ready for a break from boiling potatoes and making spaghetti.  When we arrived in Bali, I was surprised by the teeny tiny marina.
Amara backing into it's slip at the Bali marina.
One thing about sailing in Indonesia is that the cruising community was almost non-existent.  The thing I love the most about cruising is meeting the other crews and owners of boats.  There were none where we were at and that was a tad bit disappointing for me.  But hey, we were in Bali, who can complain?

It is interesting to note that our port side engine failed about half way through our journey, even with our best intentions of trying to clean the gas.  Losing an engine isn't catastrophic while sailing, but it makes for an interesting and INTENSE time while getting into a TIGHT marina and backing your boat into the slip.  Martin did an amazing job getting Amara into such a tight spot and was able to maneuver her with ease.  I on the other hand was a nervous wreck.  We arrived right when all the tourist boats were filling up with passengers and we could see people clicking away on their cameras.  

Once we got in and settled into the marina, we immediately also became tourists.  We quickly found all the hotspots and some fabulous restaurants.  Bali is super inexpensive.  We ate like kings during our stay and our average meal for three people was always less than $50.
Made and Doug enjoying a typical Balisian meal.  Suckling pig, rice and potatoes. 
Hanging in Bali
I have some more great photos of us in Bali, so come back in a few days to see the last installment of our adventure!

                                                                    *  *  *  *  *  *  *

Meanwhile, Martin and his crew of three (David, Doug and John) are in the middle of the Indian ocean making their way to South Africa.  They arrived in the Cocos islands last Friday, stayed there for a few days and are now making their way to Maritius.  I talk to Martin via satellite phone almost everyday.  Yesterday Martin sounded pretty miserable since the wind was blowing at 24 knots and they were fighting their way through rough waters.  With that combination, there is no way to avoid a queasy stomach.  I talked to Martin again today and he sounded much better.  He said the wind had died down to 20 knots.  Although not that much of an improvement, at least he didn't feel quite as nauseas.  Martin and his crew are anxious to get to South Africa.  More news on their travels tomorrow...

Sunday, September 7, 2014

Adventures in Indonesia Continue

Me and my new friend in Indonesia.
I can't believe that we are already in September!  So much to discuss.  So much to tell you about.
Visiting a local restaurant in Ubud
First, my trip to meet up with Martin and Amara in Indonesia was such a fun time.  We had originally planned that I would fly into Bali, take a small puddle jumper to Maumere and meet Martin and Doug (our good friend from Utah and who is currently helping Martin crew the boat) at the dock.

Well, like sailing, things change.  I missed my flight to Maumere.  So, Martin switched gears, kept sailing and had me fly into Lubuan Bajo (LBJ).  At the airport in Bali, Martin had arranged that our new dive guide meet me there and accompany me to LBJ where we would board Amara and head to Komodo Island--home of the famous Komodo dragons.

Our guide's name was Made (pronounced, Mau-day).  I was told that when I got to the airport to just look for the guy with the biggest smile and sure enough, I spotted him quickly in the crowd.
Our guide, Made from The Lighthouse Conultancy
*  *  *  *  *  *  *
Before I move on with this post... to our cruiser friends that are following our blog and taking notes.  If you are headed to Indonesia, this information might come in handy for your planning.  Diving in Indonesia is a little different than diving in other spots in the world.  You will really want to hire a dive guide to accompany you on your trip through Indonesia.  Cost is about $150/day and worth every penny.  Even if for a few days, do it!

Before going to Indonesia, Martin did his homework and planned carefully.  This was the one spot he had been looking forward to diving more than any other spot that we have dove in the past.  He did not want to take a chance.  For instance, Raja Ampat has some of the most incredible diving in the world.  Cenderwasih Bay is the one place guaranteed that you will see giant whale sharks.  (The photos I posted in an earlier post was of Martin and his crew with whale sharks at Cenderwasih Bay.)

During the planning process, Martin was looking at a website about information in Indonesia and saw an ad for dive guides in Indonesia.  He called and made quick friends with the owner, Andy, from The Lighthouse Consultancy.  Andy was able to arrange to have a guide for the first three weeks of the trip while Amara was in Indonesia.  Then, while I was there, we had Made join us.  These guys work through some sort of "secret" network and are on the phone constantly with other guides discussing what they had seen in the water and guiding other boats to those sites.  It really is incredible how Made was able to drop us in the water, in the middle of nowhere, and expose us to the most beautiful deep sea aquariums full of hundreds of brightly colored fish and amazing coral.

One word of advice, book you guide early.  The Lighthouse Consultancy provides guides for all the super yachts that are in Indonesia--so they go fast.  In fact, the week before Made joined us, he was on a super yacht with Bill and Melinda Gates for a few weeks.  Andy is a wonderful help and, in fact, helped book me on my flight to LBJ when I missed my flight to Maumere.

*  *  *  *  *  *  *
Once Made and I arrived in LBJ, we headed for a hotel to wait out our stay until Martin and Doug arrived a few hours later.  A bonus about Indonesia is that it is incredibly cheap. Nice hotels can go as low as $35 for a very nice hotel.  I decided that if we were going to wait, why not wait poolside at a nice hotel?  So Made (who became fast friends with me) and I headed to the hotel to have lunch and lounge a little.  (I even got an hour and half massage for $18--see, cheap!)

Later, I found out that the airline that I flew on was on the US "No Fly" list.  How was I supposed to know this?  I just wanted to get to my husband!

Around 6:00 that evening Martin and Doug called from the marina.  After sailing for two days straight taking 6 hour watches, they made it.  Albeit, a little tired and with one engine working.  The curse of buying bad gas in Sorong had followed them to LBJ.  

The next day, first priorities were grocery shopping and hiring someone to pump the diesel out of the tanks and then filter it a few times and then bring it back to us.  Made was a huge help and was able to help us find a mechanic on this tiny island to do this.  Problem was, we were there during Ramadam (a huge Muslim holiday).  Almost 90% of the population in Indonesia is Muslim.  During this holiday, and this particular day, it was a day of fasting and prayer.  Pumping out the gas was about a 2 hour job, but turned into around 5 hours because the mechanics had to keep leaving the boat to go back to their towns to pray.  Worse, I offered them water not realizing that they were fasting! (Crazy American!)  

After removing all the fuel, someone had to go down in the tanks and wipe them down.  They were that dirty from the terrible gas that we had purchased in Sorong.  All I said was, "Don't look at me!"  Actually, I wasn't even a consideration and Martin decided to "go down".
I was so afraid he was going to come up brain dead.  He had to keep coming up, grasp for air and then head back in.  In this photo, he is on his way down to clean up the tanks with paper towels and old rags.  The fumes were so bad that I had to go sit at the bow of Amara.  It was just too much.  

While the men were cleaning the gas tanks, I sat down and started to make a grocery list.  Made told me that there was a pretty good market in the town and that he would take us there after the fuel got sorted.  At those moments, I really... I mean REALLY missed Sue.  I am always so used to her making anything from nothing.  I hope that I never took her for granted.  Anyway, I really missed her mainly because I didn't want to plan out meals for the next 5 days.  I went through the bins and sorted through all the canned goods and wrote up a simple menu.  Then I listed out the ingredients that we needed and finally we headed for town on Amara's tender.  

When we arrived at the "market", what we found was that it was a great place to buy soap, rice, corn flakes and some eggs.  No produce.  No milk.  No meat.  Nothing.  So much for a substantial market. After realizing that my menu wasn't going to happen, I started to panic.  Martin assured me that the next day we could go to the early morning market and find something.   

Arriving to the early morning market, this is what we found...
Thank heaven there was a whole bounty of produce.  So I knew that we were going to be ok.  After seeing the fish, I decided to pass and hope that Sue had stocked the freezer with enough meat and fish to get us to Bali for the next five days.
With menus in place and tanks clean, and HOPEFULLY clean gas, we headed for Komodo Island.

Next installment... Komodo Island. 

Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Meet Me in Maumere


It's official, I am finally off to go meet up with Martin and Doug in Indonesia.  It has been one crazy week trying to get the house settled and get ready to meet them in Maumere.  I am so excited to see Martin!

The week leading up to seeing him, however, hasn't been quite as pleasant.  Like all good wives of husbands that have big boats, I am lugging more boat parts with me than I am sunscreen!  In fact, I think I was close to a mental breakdown on the ven diagram of emotional health just trying to pull these parts in from all corners of the US.  I got to be VERY good friends with a Yanmar distributor, who now recognizes my voice before I even introduce myself on the phone.  Words like mixing elbow, turbo pumps, oil plugs, cylinders, filters (for generator and water maker) and injectors now easily slip off my tongue.  I have looked at more diagrams of engines than I ever thought was possible.  My bag is H.E.A.V.Y!

My trip to get to Martin will be more like a planes, trains and automobiles kind of trip.  We are talking 52+ hours of travel before I even meet up with him on the island of Maumere.  Currently, Martin and Doug are racing to get to me (a five day trip for them) by Saturday.  From there we will head to the Banda Islands and go see the Kamodo dragons on the island of Kamodo (they waited for me to join them).

Well, I am off to Tokyo (where I have a 15-hour layover) and then onto Bali.  Then I'll eventually catch a little puddle jumper to meet up with Martin on Maumere.

Wish us luck!

Check back in a few days!


Thursday, July 10, 2014

Whale Sharks!

Martin swimming with whale sharks.
Martin and crew had an amazing experience last week.  They were able to go to Cenderwasih Bay and swim with the elusive whale sharks.  This has been a dream of Martin's for so long and I am so happy that he was able to finally swim with the huge creatures.   
Martin hired a dive master, Tommy, to take them through many of the famous
dive sites in Indonesia.  This being one of them.
It was very tricky for them to get to this site because there is a lot of red tape to get to this marine park.  While in the park, you have to host a ranger on your boat the entire time.  So everywhere Amara went, the ranger went with them even spending the night on Amara for the week while they were there.
Doug getting a closer look.
Trevor filming from above the whale shark.
Martin said that when he first jumped in the water to see the whale sharks they were right there in front of him.  They were just as curious about Martin as he was about them.  He said they came right for him and he said that for a moment, he got a little startled.  Quickly, he remembered that they don't have any teeth so he knew he was pretty much safe.  He couldn't get out of the water after that point knowing that they were so close to him and wanting to play.

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Martin and crew got fuel for Amara in early June and have been paying a price for purchasing REALLY BAD fuel ever since.  In the picture below, you can see visible layers or water, dirt and fuel.  Martin says that the quality of the fuel purchased is probably the worst fuel that he has ever seen, and they have been paying a price dealing with the effects that this horrible fuel has had on the engines.  They were finally able to refuel in Sorong this week and are HOPING that it isn't as bad as what they got before.  As Doug said, "Cruising off the beaten path has its advantages but it also has it's disadvantages."  Bad fuel is one of them.

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Martin and Doug are the only crew left on Amara at the moment.  They left Sarong today and are making their way to the Kamodo islands to go and see the famous Kamodo dragons.  It should take them about two days of sailing to arrive.

The great news is that Lily and I are going out next week to meet Martin.  I know, I know, he is in paradise and I am home doing who knows what?  Actually, I have been handling a lot of things here and have finally seen a window where I can come up for air, so Lily and I are taking advantage of this and heading to Bali to meet Martin, Doug and Amara.  The reunion will be grand.

Since I'll be back on Amara next week, I am hoping to keep our blog updated more, so keep checking back as I continue to write about Amara's adventures.

Saturday, June 21, 2014

Indonesia!

Obviously, from my last post, I have fallen a little behind on blogging.  Life away from AMARA seems to just suck up my time with little time to sit on the couch and just type.  Lily and I plan on rejoining AMARA at the first of July, so I am sure my blogging will take on a little more energy when I join Martin and our crew.  So, where to start...

First, Martin came home for a visit the first two weeks of June.  It was absolutely lovely having him home even though I felt like we were in fast forward the entire time trying to fit everything in on our list of "to do's".  Other than not getting two (very important) filters for our engines, I think Martin was able to pull in boat parts from all over the country to take back with him to join AMARA back in Indonesia.

Upon his return, it also meant a change in crew.  Sue, David, John and Tamrika took off in different directions in Indonesia and our new crew stepped on board.
Saying "goodbye" to David and Sue.  You will be missed!
And now, our new crew...
Top Row, left to right:  Patty (Doug's daughter), Vicki, Trevor and Doug
Bottom Row:  Ali (Martin's niece),  Tommy (a local dive guide) and Martin
Patty and Ali are just out for two weeks visiting.  Doug and Trevor have sailed with Martin before when they sailed from the coast of Florida to the Bahamas back in 2012 on Doug's boat.  So, Martin already knows that they will work well together.  Vicki is Trevor's wife and we are so happy to have her along, I only hope they don't put her to work too much in the galley since Sue is no longer on the boat.  
Ali taking in the sights in Bali.
Ali (our niece) just graduated from high school so Martin invited her out to Bali to join him and the crew as they dive in some of the most beautiful spots in Indonesia.  I am a little jealous because every time Martin calls, he explains in detail the beauty of the areas of where they are anchored.  I wish I was already out there, but things are also happening here in Utah (more on that later) so someone needs to be here in Utah to hold down the fort.

Check back in a few days and I will get some more pictures of their dive adventures and the story of our ripped spinnaker.  Oh the tales one can tell when it comes to figuring out a way to get it repaired while in Indonesia.   Leave it to Martin, and a lot of effort on his part, in getting it repaired.  More on that later...